Assisi

Visit to the historic centre, 31st October

Assisi has been affected by a great number of earthquakes (most notably in 1997 and 2011), and the reports of these mentions the extensive damage to this World Heritage Site, and in particular to the frescoes of the Franciscan Basilica.

Admittedly, my visit to Assisi was more of a holiday than a work trip. However, I had the prior earthquake damage in mind and was looking out for signs of reconstruction, perhaps some elements of new build. Of course, the entire place was reconstructed exactly as it was pre-quake, in very precise and minute detail. Sure, some buildings look perhaps too 'polished' considering their age, but then the whole town is clean and immaculately kept. In fact, my main observation was that Assisi is like a town in a glass dome - it has been museumified, frozen in time for the complete commodification of its heritage. This is evident in the endless tourist shops, restaurants, tour guides, floods of visitors and coaches... In fact, having visited Assisi from the city of Perugia nearby, I have to say it felt considerably soulless in comparison.

I don't think one could really compare the breathtaking beauty of Assisi with that of L'Aquila's historic centre... But it is interesting to realise that in terms of L'Aquila's reconstruction, I would want to aim more for the lively, local feel of Perugia to that of Assisi. L'Aquila's current reconstruction pattern of dov'era com'era (where it was how it was) means that it is in danger of becoming like Assisi, insofar as the buildings are restored to a perfected version of the past and frozen in time, rather than progressively adapting with contemporary interventions.